The best bars in America: Esquire knew it was impossible right from the beginning. To identify the best bars in a country this vast and this thirsty is a task on the order of identifying the best cells in the human body. At the time, they decided to recommend only bars that they knew personally. They still think that was a good call. This meant that best bars was going to be an ongoing project, particularly since they’re always preferred visiting bars as part of their regular activities rather than organizing special missions. (If you make a special trip to find something, you tend to find what you’re looking for whether it’s there or not.) But they had — and, thank God, continue to have — good bar-steeped writers all over the country, and teh Esquire drinks correspondent, David Wondrich, gets around quite a bit and is not averse to visiting bars. Sooner or later, they figured, they would at least get to the major drinking towns in America, places with their own distinctive bar traditions and cultures. And yet some bar cities of reputation kept getting neglected. So this year, they finally broke down and decided to start pointing Wondrich at a few of those towns. His first destination was Milwaukee, Wisconsin, a town whose reputation among barflies looms large. Here’s his report on Milwaukee.